Every long surf trip has a character you didn’t see coming. On the road through Morocco, deep into the winter hunt for empty points and quiet reefs, that character turned up selling doughnuts.
He wasn’t part of the plan. He didn’t speak much English, and Keith’s group didn’t speak much Arabic. But somewhere between the broken conversation, the shared food, and the simple fact of showing up in the same dusty spot morning after morning, he became part of the trip — one of those people you meet for a few days and remember for the rest of your life.
It’s a small story in the scheme of a twenty-chapter book, but it captures something bigger about those early surf trips: the way the search for waves kept putting a small group of British surfers in the path of people and places they never expected, and how often it was the unplanned moments — not the swell forecasts — that made the trip.
Buy the Book